Climbing in Eldorado Canyon State Park
THIS PAGE IS UNDER CONSTRUCTION, THANK YOU FOR YOUR PATIENCE
Icon Key:
Total time for the objective (including approach and descent)
Appropriate climbing experience level
Approach information
Length of the route
Descent information
Sun/shade exposure
Rate
Full Day Climbs in Eldorado Canyon
This list provides information about the most popular guided routes. If you are interested in something different, just let me know!
Also note: depending on experience/comfort level and route traffic, climb times can vary greatly. If we finish the route quickly we can always do a bonus pitch/climb to fill the full day.
Swanson Arete (5.6)
Swanson Arete on Redgarden Wall is a great option if you want a full day adventure with beautiful exposure over the canyon and mellow climbing difficulty. The first pitch is the most challenging and there are a few different options for it, the climbing eases up with a couple of engaging sections along the way. Another climb in this area at a similar difficulty is Icarus.
~5-6 hours
Beginner - Intermediate
~ 30 minutes uphill
4 pitches
4 rappels + some hiking
Morning shade
$420 for 1 climber | $300 each for 2 climbers
Rewritten (5.7)
Rewritten is one of the most popular routes in the canyon, and for good reason! Each pitch has something unique to offer from face, to cracks to an incredible exposed arete! The iconic “crux pitch” (hardest pitch) starts out with a traverse across a juggy crack above hundreds of feet of exposure. This climb is a must do if you feel comfortable at the grade. (Optional 5.8 variation pitch to start for a little extra challenge).
~5-6.5 hours
Beginner - Intermediate
~ 30 minutes uphill
6 pitches
Hike with some scrambling
Shade all morning
$420 for 1 climber | $300 each for 2 climbers
Gambit (5.8)
Gambit is my personal favorite 5.8 in the canyon! You follow interesting cracks and face moves to the summit of Shirttail peak, the highest point in Eldorado Canyon! The climbing and views are incredible. Best for shoulder season or an overcast summer day.
~6-8 hours
Beginner - Advanced
~ 50-60 minutes up switchbacks
4-5 pitches
3 rappels
Start in the shade; upper pitches in the sun
$420 for 1 climber | $300 each for 2 climbers
Long John Wall (5.8)
Long John Wall on the West Ridge is a super fun, sustained route. This route may challenge your crack climbing technique in a few sections, but overall tends to climb quickly. For super speedy clients, this can be linked into a route on Redgarden Wall, otherwise a bonus pitch or two is a great way to wrap up the day. Pair this with Handcracker Direct (10a) for a crack-tastic day!
~3.5-5 hours
Intermediate - Advanced
~ 20-30 minutes uphill
4 pitches
A little roped scrambling and 2 rappels
Shade all morning
$420 for 1 climber | $300 each for 2 climbers
Advanced Routes in Eldorado Canyon
Outer Space (5.10b/c)
The Yellow Spur (5.9+)
The Naked Edge (5.11b)
Heavy Weather (5.9+)
Handcracker Direct (5.10a)
Half- Day in Eldorado Canyon
The Wind Tower (5.4-5.8)
The Wind Tower is a great place to ease into multi-pitch climbing. With a short approach and many routes at accessible grades there’s fun for the whole family here. In a half day you could climb two short routes or one all the way to the summit! One or two of these routes can also be linked into a full day in the canyon!
2-4 hours
Complete Beginner - Intermediate
~ 5-10 minutes uphill
2 - 4 pitches (depending on the route)
Walk off/two rappels/roped scramble to one rappel (depending on the route)
Morning shade & full sun throughout the afternoon. Breezy (2 pitch 5.5) stays tucked in the shade longer than other routes. On hot days it’s best to get an early start. Sunrise Mindset, ya know? ;)
$325 for 1 climber | $200 each for 2 climbers